Tuesday Nov 23, 2021

What the Nose Knows - The Art of Perfumery, Scent and Inspiration

Perfume has been linked to civilisation as far back as we can go. It is known that before the Battle of Thermopylae the Spartan warriors, knowing they were going to die fighting off the Persians, bathed and perfumed themselves to meet their death smelling good.

In this episode, Ikramuddin Zwane, a self-taught perfumer from Johannesburg, South Africa, opens a door onto the world of scent, olfaction and the art of perfumery alongside reflections from his journal of perfumery.

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Timecode Guide:

02:43 The beginning of Ikramuddin’s journey mixing perfumes just for fun and his Moroccan Taxi driver

04:45 From mixing existing perfumes to learning how to make perfumes via Peter from the UK

06:43 Started mixing by experimentation drawing from instinct

07:58 The 5% of perfumers that are artisans

09:46 Three levels of Perfumery - 1st Designer Perfumes

10:57 Three levels of Perfumery - 2nd Niche Perfumes

11:46 Three levels of Perfumery - 3rd Artisanal Perfumes

12:02 The traditional way of becoming a perfumer

12:52 The non-traditional way of becoming a perfumer

13:45 How the non-traditionalists break the rules and the example of the Chypre

16:25 The subjectivity of perfume

17:43 The price tag of perfume and how perfumes smell different on different people .

19:44 The driving force behind artisanal perfumery

20:04 The smell of the Springbok

20:58 Deer musk - where it comes from and what it is

23:11 Ambergris - where it comes from and what it is

26:15 Oud - where it comes from and what it is

Out of all the perfumery in the world the 'oud' is the most diverse, basically its like all the other raw materials you can find - in a tree

28:40 With Hardship Comes Ease

29:50 The Ayat: “Which of the favours of your Lord will you deny?” and inspiration from Allah

30:28 The hadith of the Prophet (sallahu alayhi wassalam) on his love of perfume

32:10 Spirituality linked to certain scents and the link to the heart

33:11 Dr Muhammad Cassim on the link between scent and inspiration

34:20 Scent and memory

There is a strong connection between scent an memory. And it immediately takes you back, you are transported. Its basically timeless!

38:00 Do the ancient perfume recipes still exist and if so are they accessible?

40:38 The Battle of Thermopylae and the warrior’s perfuming themselves in preparation for their death

42:02 Khoi San perfume of Southern Africa

42:20 Perfumes comes from one of the Prophets just like martial arts - where does the inspiration come from?

43:00 How do you choose the smells in a perfume?

45:10 A perfume as the imagined smell of places in the past

48:22 The scent of a horse

49:08 The difficulty of making a clear distinction between masculine and feminine in perfumery

51:11 Life is fluid. It’s very hard to remain structural. Things change. They move

What the Nose Knows - The Art of Perfumery, Scent and Inspiration

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